Quiet Sunday

We are taking a day of rest today--our "old" bodies need it. We're even resting from 8 am church today though our ward is very nice, and we enjoy it. Last week we the new missionary couple came for the first time--new directors of the temple visitors center: Elder and Sister Eubank. Elder Eubank is otherwise known as Mark, the weather man. They were called to a two-year mission at the St George Temple visitor center and after a year were released early so they could be called to a two-year mission here. Three years for the call of two. 

This afternoon we'll have our downstairs neighbors up for dinner. The are the Lusters, who taught at Snow when I was there. Jim has retired from teaching physics and is teaching here for a year as a volunteer. A lot of people do that--come for a year as volunteers and teach.

I drove to the neighboring town to get my debit card from the woman who rescued it. She and her two teenage children living a very small and very run down house off Homestead Road--lands given to native Hawaiians to live on. I don't know much about that, but many Hawaiians feel that their land was taken from them when the US eliminated the monarchy and made Hawaii a territory. They haven't forgotten, especially on this side of the island where Hawaiians predominate. We're really enjoying the Hawaiian roots music we're discovering here. 

Anyway, I had a hard time finding the place and I think we was waiting. She and her kids greeted me and the door and gave me my card. I gave her two See's bars, dark chocolate with almonds (our favorite and our last) and thanked her. She gave me a hug. She took good care of the card.

The pictures are some flowers--from the the farmer's market yesterday and from the university grounds outside our offices. 

Greg

Happy Year of the Ox

This afternoon we went to Chinatown for the Chinese New Year celebration. It was crowded, noisy with fireworks, and lots of fun. We went with my graduate student, Maggie Hong, who lives near there and speaks Cantonese. She was a great guide. She took us to a dim sum restaurant that had a long waiting list, but we got seated quickly--ahead of the rest. The server told her in Cantonese that it was because she has a baby with her--and some old people. Dim sum was wonderful and the lion dancers in the street were lots of fun. Chinatown is a friendly place. 

It was a fun day that started at the local farmers market buying varieties of  avocados, citrus, and bananas we've never tasted before, and a Hawaiian birthday gift for our granddaughter, Yunie. The only complication was when I left my debit card in the ATM. I figured that out 30 miles and 45 minutes later. I cancelled the card. Then when we got back to Laie we checked at the student center where the ATM is and found a note from the woman who rescued it. Greg

Pictures of home and school

Inauguration day. We got turned the tv on at 6:30 am for the 7 am swearing in and speech. We have hope. I really liked the closing prayer, and the prayer for the luncheon--asking the Lord to bless this president with protection from arrogance. What a great blessing that will be for all of us. We just watched the Obamas walk hand in hand down Pennsylvania Ave--I remember watching Jimmy Carter do that in 1976. I was sitting at a typewriter in our apartment in Springville writing my MA thesis. Now it's a laptop in Hawaii revising an essay for publication. Some things change and some things don't.

It's a rainy day and the waves are as flat as we have seen them. I ran an errand and took a picture to post here of the main building of BYUH. The flags represent the home countries of the current students. Diversity is the fun reality here. 

I have been trying to drag myself away from the beach to work on that essay that came back for major revision. So Linda caught me reading in the living room, and today I took a picture of the view that was distracting me from that reading. 

Yesterday we walked across the reef to a little island off the point--Mokuauia, or Goat Island as most call it. You can see it on the horizon in the picture out our living room window. There's a bird refuge there, and a pristine little beach on a quiet lagoon that you can't see from shore, along with some cliffs that the big waves crash on. Couldn't take cameras out there because the trip is a very wet hike. The ocean out there is deep, wild, and very blue. Greg

Things We Love and Don't Love About Hawaii

Things we Love:

Being lulled to sleep by ocean breakers on the beach

Walking/Running on sandy beach barefoot at sunrise

Constant gentle breeze

Soft clean air

Sandy beaches 

Wrinkles and itches go away

POG (Passion, Orange, Guava juice)

Diverse Culture and Races

Barefoot--especially on beaches

Flip flops are sufficient

Kite surfers

Paddle surfers

Surfers

Smooth elbows

Contacts are sooo easy to wear

Bird speak

Norfolk Pines tall tall tall

Pickup trucks with surf boards in bed

Soft water

Barely warm showers

No lotion necessary

Fresh water outdoor showers at all beaches

Living in the breath of God (storm mists)

Clothes don't need ironing

Kind, friendly, strong people

Ocean buoyancy

Deep breath is welcome to our lungs

Hawaiian Renaissance (old style) music

Golden light on sunset clouds

Visibility--layers of clouds

Polynesian singing

Things we don't love about Hawaii:

Knee and chin scrapes on coral

Legs look like bruised peaches

We aren't mistaken for strong young surfers

Linda & Greg

Culture Shock and Green

We walk 15 minutes to our office.  We go a bit on the King Kamehameha (named after the leader who got all the island people to unite) Highway, then cross it and go straight 5 blocks to our office. The highway is one lane each direction and circles the island.  It's the local main street.  The speed limit is 35 mph.  Driving is lovely on it--the scenery is tropical flora--house plants gone huge.  It has a 2-3 feet wide bike/walking edge--then a wide enough grass width for a good parking place before people's fences make their front yard.  I walk in that little bike/walk lane.

Yesterday I walked up to the place where I cross the highway.  I stepped back from the street--and was standing in the parking area.  I was studying the traffic in both directions, waiting for a clear space in both directions so I could cross.

As I was watching for a space in the lane away from me, I was shocked to see the next car stop for me.  I was aghast.  I am used to the Utah pedestrian motto: Run for Your Life.  Then I looked at the lane closest to me and saw the traffic stopped in that direction too.  I was flummoxed. (I've always wanted to use that word.)  I picked my chin off the ground and closed my mouth saying thank you to the drivers and scurried across. Pure culture shock.

I was so discombobulated that I only crossed one of the traffic circle streets.  BYUH is a straight shot (5 blocks) down the street.  So I should cross 2 traffic circle streets in order to continue going straight.  The street is dead ended by our building.  I CAN SEE THE HUGE MOSAIC OF DAVID O MCKAY AND THE HUGE CIRCLE OF TALL FLAGS--WITH TALL PALM TREES ON EACH SIDE from the highway.  It's hard to miss--unless you're in culture shock.  I calmed myself my admiring the bird of paradise which were blooming by the sidewalk. I love them, and although I watched for them, I saw none in American Samoa.I got almost to the end of the street and looked up to see not the Humanities building, but the Laie Temple--white, with terraces and columns manicured lush gardens, and PEACE/CALM heavy in the air-- dead ending the street I was on.  

I wear sport sunscreen when I walk to BYUH to keep sunspots from multiplying on my face.  I know why that sports stuff doesn't come off in water or sweat.  It's like applying varnish.  I'm sweating--sweat rolls down my cheeks.  I am reciting the first line of Leslie Norris' Hippopotamus poem, (When the sun beats down with a golden frown...) I decide to take the next street and follow the grid, which undoubtedly rules here.  NOT.  

God was with me-- the street I took did curve around to the campus, and once again I spied the tall flags.  All was well, except for my extreme sweating.  And I couldn't recupe in my air conditioned office and drink gallons of water.  I was 5 minutes late already and had to locate Greg's classroom (The same room I teach in the following hour). This sounds easy, but all the buildings and roofs are the same color.  I get lost every single day trying to find the classroom--and my way back to the English offices, so I had planned to meet Greg at his office (which I can find from the flags in the big circle) and walk with him to the classroom. I've been attending his class just before my class (same course--advanced writing) with readings from African American Literature.  Since this literature and historical context  is Greg's expertise, I attend his class to see how I should teach the following hour.

I really can find my way when I can see the landscape.  But Laie's landscape is tropical jungle. My sense of direction is that of a Plains Indian--Lakota Sioux.  It is not that of an indigenous tropical islander.  The two landscapes differ greatly. So much for my zen walk to BYUH yesterday...

Greg and I walked home together--the short direct way.  And we watched this chameleon walking on a concrete curb near the sidewalk.   Greg took these photos with his magic iphone. He was a foot in length, counting his tail.  Each step was a bit of a dance.  He placed his foot down, then put his weight forward on it, then swayed his body back to his former stance, then shifted his weight forward again (not moving feet).  He repeated this several times until his weight shifting assured him the concrete curb wasn't going to give under him.  Only then did he place his new foot forward and repeated the shifting.  I think this song is appropriate:  First you say you will, and then you won't--and then you say you do, and then you don't... or... It's not easy being green.  It looked funny to us, but I suppose it's a good way to travel on tree branches--with toes that split in the middle.

Linda

Surf's Up

This is what they call a "swell." After class yesterday we started an excursion to the urban side of the island where Costco and Walmart are--had to get supplied. To get there we go around the North Shore, and there are warnings up that the North Shore is dangerous just now. There were a handful of surfers out there, and hundreds of people on the beach.  Traffic up from Honolulu was at a crawl. Everyone was coming to see the waves. The waves were more interesting than the surfers--as you can see, in waves like this surfing is hard going. 

We've all seen movies of North Shore waves. By comparison, these were disappointing. On the news channels the weather reporters said they didn't rise to forecast level. But 30 feet is still pretty impressive, especially when you are standing on the beach.   

I hadn't eaten since breakfast so shopping was worse than usual for me. After finishing at Costco we went to a place called Fatboy's Drive In to get something to eat. We had what they call here a "plate:" some vaguely Asian entree with rice and either macaroni or green salad. We got some chicken curry thing, which turned out the be boned chicken thighs deep fried and sliced and cooked in a mild curry sauce. It was good comfort food, but definitely for fat boys.

Greg

Aloha Oe

Today immediately after sacrament meeting ended, a Polynesian brother stepped up to the podium and began to sing Aloha Oe.  The entire congregation stood up and sang with him.  It was the farewell ritual for a missionary couple from Logan.  The couple stood on the stand, and people came up the aisle singing.  They each spoke to both missionaries, placed an ula or lei over this heads, and gave them a real hug.  Everyone kept singing through to the end of the song.  The organist accompanied.  I don't know if I've ever heard Aloha Oe on the organ.  It was a very sweet and touching thing to see and hear.

Linda

Pandanus Tree and Seed Pod Brushes

We have found a pandanus tree on the beach.  The leaves are used to weave mats and bags and baskets.  The seed pod is the size of a large pineapple.  After the seed pod matures and drops to the ground, you can go find the segments of the pod broken apart under the tree.  These are the brushes we use to put lines and symbols on tapa.  Don't you think they are perfect brushes?  You can trim them with scissors if you want a smaller point.  They are about the length of my thumb. Samoan tapa devotes one of its nine symbols to the pandanus tree.  I love this tree. Did you see that growth hangs down from the branches and then roots in the ground and becomes root/support?  Cool.

Linda

crabs big and small

These photos show little crab burrows.  They are a few feet beyond high water on the beach. The single hole is a large crab (including legs) about dime size.  You can see the sand it dug and sent out of the burrow.  These holes are all perfectly round.  More spheres.

Linda

The largest sphere is just what it looks like--a rubber ball, made from the rubber trees here--rubber strands are wrapped into a ball.  Yes, it bounces.  It too was on the beach.

Linda

spheres--gifts from the beach

Round is the beach theme for the past few days.  Some are seeds, including a tiny pine cone from the tall, spindly evergreen trees with  long drooping soft needles.  The two bobbins are string stuff wrapped around the center post.  When I brought them in and put them down, a tiny bright green worm fell out of one.  I wonder if these are related to silk worms.  

Linda

Saturday's rainbow

Yesterday was a bright and clear day and then in the afternoon a storm started moving in from the ocean. So this is what we say as the sun was giving in the to clouds. Couldn't fit the whole thing into a camera, so you'll have to imagine the middle of the bow. 

We ate breakfast at the Hukilau Cafe, setting of the movie "Fifty First Dates"--except for the movie they moved the cafe set to the beach. Here it's in the neighborhood a block away from us. 

We tried out our snorkeling stuff in the ocean behind our house. Yesterday all the sea activities but scuba were going on there: body surfing, boogie boarding, paddle surfing, kayaking, snorkeling, and a half mile out at the edge of the reef, board surfing. We walked the beach and then cooled off body surfing.  Greg

North Shore

We drove 30 minutes over to Haleiwa today--to the dive and surf store--and got equipped with snorkeling equipment with dual-duty fins: they will work for snorkeling and for body-board and body surfing. We're good at snorkeling, learning about body-surfing, and getting up the courage for the boogie boards. Then, we'll take a board surfing lesson. I've found the teachers--now it's matter of making the call. So on the way to the dive store we stopped along the North Shore beaches and watched the big waves and the experts for awhile. Many more people watching from the beach than surfing. These people are good! After being a spectator for awhile I'm a little intimidated about the surfing--this is Greg writing that: Linda doesn't get intimidated.

And, yes, we are teaching. We not just being tourists. We taught our first day yesterday (Greg's three classes and Linda's one) and will continue tomorrow. The students seem to like us so far. We seem to like them to0. We'll see how it goes. 

aloha

There is a relaxed friendliness here.  We walked into Jolene's office in the Human Resources Office.  She's large and tall, about 40, and very beautiful--Polynesian.  When she saw us she stood up and embraced each of us with a real hug, saying, "You're the Clarks!  I'm so happy to meet you! Welcome!"   It was a wonderful softening welcome for us to BYUH.  Then she did several things very competently to get us ready for work--still very sweet and fun with us.  That welcome is known as the aloha greeting. The same kindness is also seen in driving.  People let you in and never honk.  What a difference from Provo.

We keep singing Paul Simon's Slow down, you move too fast. Got to make the morning last just kicking down cobble stone (sandy beach) looking for fun and feeling groovy.  We think the slow down is necessary for the warm welcome and happiness of people.  Surprisingly, slowing down results in our getting all the important stuff done, because we focus more deeply on one thing at a time.  What a good example Laie is.  YES!  We are having a great time.

Late afternoon on our 5th day in paradise

We have been in Hawaii since the afternoon of January 1, and have found Chinatown and the Banzai Pipeline and BYU Hawaii. Our rental car goes back to the airport tonight with the Williams and we are left on our own in their house on the beach. We just came in from our daily regimen of playing in the waves, and now we'll just watch them--that the sea turtle that in them lives outside our window--until it gets dark. It does get very dark.  

For the last few days the bay behind our house has been pretty raucous, with lots of kite-surfers enjoying the wind. That's one photo. The profile photo on the right is us in the Salt Lake airport on New Year's Day waiting for our flight to Honolulu--Linda wanted a "before" picture. We expect to post an "after" picture soon showing us slimmer, tanner, and younger. 

Tomorrow our classes start. I (Greg) am teaching three and Linda is teaching one. Our Mondays, Wednesday, and Fridays are going to be busy. Tuesdays and Thursdays and Saturdays will not be. Sundays are Sundays. We've been getting set up on campus, meeting old Samoa and even Ephraim friends, and getting ready to pronounce our students' names.