They were here all week--and it was a fun week for us. We even cancelled our Wednesday classes, irresponsibly taking a day off to be with them. Tessa's first priority was to learn to surf, so we arranged for our friend, Joe Wilson, who teaches surfing at BYUH, to take us on Tuesday. We were all severely humbled.
Surfing is hard. Paddling is hard, and getting up is hard. I was good at getting to my knees but from then on I wasn't able to stay balanced. Linda had the same problem. Linda outlasted me, though, with the paddling part. She's in better upper body shape than I am. Tessa and Josh--the athletes--also struggled, but they did catch on a little faster than the old folks. We went again on Thursday to another beach.
When you do catch a wave it's a wonderful feeling. Ours were little, rolling, beginner waves on big, broad, bouyant boards. But when we caught one we were carried along with the wave with a whispering sound. On Wednesday we went out to Pipeline and sat on the beach watching the big waves and the experts.
Tessa and Josh are gone now and we still have those big boards in the garage. Linda and I will keep trying to learn until Joe needs them for his classes.
The pictures are, I hope, self-explanatory. Click on them to enlarge.
Greg
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